Eleanora of Toledo was a duchess from the 16th century, Italy. Her burial clothes included these stockings which are one of the first examples where knit and purl stitches were used as decorative elements in the design.

With the numerous attempts at recreating these beautiful stockings I felt the need to add my interpretation to the fray. I found that the patterns did not look as close to the reference photos as I would like so I made an attempt to create a chevron pattern closer to the original piece, and to create four distinct eyelets in the latticework pattern. I also decreased the number of stiches at the ankle to improve the proportions from the first attempt.

The original was 100% silk which I used on my first attempt but I found that it didn’t have the stretch that I was looking for and I’m concerned about the weight of the sock and lack of “bounce back” factor. So my second attempt is of a silk/merino blend which has much better elasticity and will form to the leg more closely. I'm still in the midst of tweeking this pattern as I go.

First Attempt stocking	second attempt of chevron
Gauge: 8 sts to the inch, 12 rows to the inch. Cuff: Cast on 108 sts. (36 per needle) (chevron pattern)
k row k5, p1, k6 k4, 1p, k1, p1, k5 k3, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k4 k2, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k3 k1, p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1, k2 p1, k1, p1, k5, p1, k1, p1, k1 k1, p1, k7, p1, k1, p1 p1, k9, p1, k1 k11, p1 k row	x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x o x x x x x x x x x x o x o x x x x x x x x o x o x o x x x x x x o x o x o x o x x x x o x o x x x o x o x x o x o x x x x x o x o x x o x x x x x x x o x o o x x x x x x x x x o x x x x x x x x x x x x o x x x x x x x x x x x x

Knit one row, purl one row, knit row, purl row.
(reference of Vogue Knitting book)

(Lozenge pattern) 12 sts and 12 round rep
p1, k3, yo, k2 tog, yo, ssk, k2, p2
p2, k7, p3
p3, k5, p3, k1
k1, p3, k3, p3, k2
k2, p3, k1, p3, k3
yo, ssk, k1, p5, k2, yo, k2 tog
yo, ssk, k2, p3, k3, yo k2 tog
k3, p5, k4
k2, p3, k1, p3, k3
k1, p3, k3, p3, k2
p3, k5, p3, k1
p2, k2, yo, k2 tog, yo, ssk, k1, p3
(Repeat pattern once)
K row, p row, k row, p row
(Repeat Chevron pattern),
This completes the patterned cuff

(Repeat Chevron pattern)
This completes the patterned cuff
Turn your work so that this cuff is now inside out and continue to work using the following pattern. When the stocking is finished the cuff will then be the right way out when folded down.

Stocking proper:
1st row: K1, P1 ,K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, (moss stitch pattern)
K1, P3, K1, (ribbing)
P9, K1, P3, K1 repeat (garter stitch pattern)

2nd row: K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, k9, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1 repeat

3rd row: P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, k1, P3, K1, P9, K1, P3, K1 repeat

4th row: P1,K1,P1,K1, P1,K1,P1,K1, k1,P1,K1,P1,K1 k10,P1, K1,P1,K1 repeat

Continue knitting rows 1 to 4 to form the pattern panels.

78th row: Decrease by K2tog at middle of each garter (knit rows) and moss stitch panel
90th row: as 78th
110th row: as 78th, alternate decreasing rows with plain rows until 90 stitches total and work until 140th row.
Row 143 decrease panels to 3sts each
Row 144 decrease ribbing to 2sts each
Row 145 decrease ribbing to 1 st each
Row 146 knit in pattern.

140th row: Stocking should reach your ankle. If extra length is needed, add it now!

When adequate length is near decrease as in 78th row in alternating rounds until 70sts total. (do not decrease in consecutive rounds, it looks awful) Knit 6 rows in pattern

Divide in half for heel

Using two needles knit 28 rows in Pattern, or until heel flap is a square. Remember to reverse purl for plain and vice versa on reverse rows to keep pattern looking correct.)

Shape the heel:
Count stitches, and knit one past the middle, k2 tog, k1, turn Sl 1, Work back the same number of stitches until 3 left, k2 tog, k1, turn, Center group of stitches have small gap on either end Sl 1 at beginning of each pass, k2 tog on either side of the gap until all sts used up. ( I suggest to switch to straight moss stitch for underside of foot as the established pattern is jumbled from decreases)

Knit in pattern to centre of heel sts. Slip instep sts on to one needle. (make sure that you are on the outside of the sock) Using spare needle knit other half of heel sts, then knit up the side of the heel flap picking up 15 sts along edge of heel flap you have just made.

Using 2nd needle work across instep sts
Using 3rd needle pick up 15sts on side of other heel flap then work across remaining heel sts.
*Knit instep sts to last 3 then K2 tog, K1. Knit across instep. Knit other instep starting with K1, sl 1 K1 psso. Knit one round without shaping.*
Repeat * to * till number of heel sts on the two needles equals the instep
Continue without shaping until desired foot length to start of toes is achieved.
Shape toe by decreasing once in centre of each garter and moss stitch panel. Knit one round without shaping. This will help to make the ribs maintain positions along toes Knit to last 12 sts total. Kitchener graph toe closed.
Finished dimensions: cuff to heel 20inches/ 51cm; diameter at cuff 15 inches/ 38cm; heel to toe 7inches/ 18cm; ankle 7inches/ 18cm

I make no claims to being the best knitter, sock knitter, or pattern maker. I am an artist, a perfectionist, and very tenacious. This was a challenge set to me to make a pair of these socks. I invite your input into my pattern, but please be constructive and polite in your comments.