How to Create Hakama (pants)
A couple of notes for this one: the original design of these pants was crotchless and it drapes much better if you do it this way. For those unwilling to have this I recommend that you add a small "J" seam at the front and back of the centre seam. It's a cheat, but if it's subtle only someone who knows the original design (and knows enough sewing) will realize what you've done.
1. Using loom width determined by kimono. You can create 2, 4, or 6 panel. (Refers to number of panels total, 1panel per leg, 2 panels per leg, or 3)
2. If you wish to cheat, 45” fabric is equal to 3 panels if your panel is 15 inches. Trust me, saves a lot of sewing.
3. Measure waist to floor
4. Most difficult is the 6 panel. Three panels per leg. Sew the three panels together for each leg.
5. Cut the middle panel of each group of 3 panels the depth of the crotch length. (keep in mind this is a lower sitting pant than modern, it is not the same as your inseam, if you sew this high you will be very uncomfortable)
6. The slits are then sewn to other panel slits to create the center line of the pant.
7. The outside openings are sewn only to the same level as the crotch.
8. The front and back finished width at the waist should measure the distance of the hip bones.
9. To achieve this, pleat the top of the pant three times to the center line of the pant, front and back.
10. Fold in the unfinished edge at the sides and sew.
11. Add the waist ties and make sure that they are long enough to wrap around you twice with enough left over to tie them.